Many a times a design which sewed out perfectly in the past, just doesn't sew out good enough - this could be caused by an improper size needle or blunt needles.
Needles and threads have a size number and thickness respectively - if these mismatch, then there will be lots of thread breaks and various other issues affecting your embroidery.
Blunt needles are a major cause of thread breaks, because when the needle wears out there are shards of tiny metal protrude from the tip of the needle and are as sharp as razors, they either peel or cut the thread - use a magnifying glass to see for yourself.
So, the burning question remains - how often should one change the needles?
Needles on a multi-head machine wear out according to the colors being run through that particular needle - for example if you have a jacket back design with a fill and a border - the needle used in for fill will wear out before the needle sewing border.
Cheerios.
Bobbin plays a very crucial role in embroidery - it is the thread which runs under the fabric, creating the knots and keeps the top thread from unraveling - of course, the digitizer also needs to tie in and tie off the first and the last stitch on an embroidery object as well to secure the embroidery.
There are instances when bobbin thread, which is white in color 99% of the times, shows on top of the embroidery and plays spoil sport - so, here are the reasons that you should look at, that could be causing the bobbin thread to show on top.
1. The tension of the top thread is too tight, pulling the bobbin thread more than its supposed to and dragging it above the fabric.
2. The screw located on the bobbin case is loose and is releasing more than required thread.
3. If both of the above reasons have been taken care of and still you face this problem, than reversing the direction in which the bobbin rotates, while feeding the thread, could also help.
Happy Embroidering!
There are several reasons, which could be causing it - so, please read on before you fire your digitizer!
= Improper Hooping
If the fabric hooped too tightly, it stretches the fabric and after embroidering when the fabric is removed from the hoop, fabric tries return to original state - and in doing so faces a resisting pull and push effect from the embroidery resulting in curling up, try to loosely hoop the fabric.
I would also like to mention here, that sometimes if the grain of the fabric is not hooped perpendicular to the hoop, can also result in uneven or wrapping effect.
= Improper Backing
Backing plays a crucial role in stabilizing the fabric when its been embroidered, so check if you are using a the correct stabilizer - to read more about stablizers click here.
= Improper Underlay or density.
If the design is complex with too many overlapping objects and a high stitch count, then a very dense underlay can also cause puckering - so, reducing the density of both the underlay and the design may help - you can also try changing the stitch angle and the sewing direction.
The usual complain with embroidering on knit caps is that despite of the thickest font and increased pull compensation - it stills sews thin.
There are several ways to skin this cat - you can try to increase the density of the stitches by about 25% and use double zig-zag underlay - which is fairly easy in Wilcom Embroidery Digitizing Software.
You can also create a base or background with light tatami fill and then place the logo on it - this light tatami fill has to be sewed with same color thread as the cap to make it subtle.
You can also try using Solvy - it is something many people use on things such as fleece etc. it works extremely well on knit caps and keeps embroidery from sinking into the fabric and maintain the width of the columns.
You can also use a combination of Solvy and stick on backing - try to slightly stretch the fabric on the top with Solvy till you are happy with the layout.
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